Tuesday, January 29, 2019

Basic Black: Lotus Cheongsam (Qípáo) Variation

pc: Layna Anderson/Clker 2014


Even as we plug away at the new year and are getting back into grind of work, I'm still enjoying a piece of Christmas. One of the gifts I received was Sato Watanabe's Basic Black: 26 Edgy Essentials for the Modern Wardrobe (Thanks, Grandma and Grandpa! 😊). Each of the pieces has a few striking or distinguishable features that would be in the spotlight on a single-color garment. However, I found the fabric first and then chose the pattern. Hobby Lobby sucked me in once again with a $3/yd sale, so I bought the last 3.25 yards on the bolt. At first, I had a little trouble deciding if the flowers were loti, peonies, or chrysanthemums. Finally settled on a many-petaled lotus, but who really knows?


The pattern is in a Japanese pattern book, so of course I had to trace it. I had some exceptional assistance...




A few things to note: I had to make my own facing for the collar and front opening since so many parts are pieced together at the top of the garment. Also, seam allowance is totally up to the maker, of course. It was easier than I thought it would be, but it was difficult to make the garment lie flat so that I could get accurate measurements as I drew a pattern for the facing. Next time, I would definitely add some interfacing to the collar and facing. There is a small translation error for 'ties' as 'waist ties' and there are no ties at the waist. I used wide cotton twill ribbon instead of cutting ties, and I added 13 inches to the shirt pattern to make the dress.

 



I am  pleased with the result overall and would make it again, but I don't really have a great need for another cheongsam. However, I do highly recommend this book and her particular pattern.
Happy Sewing!

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