Saturday, November 26, 2016

Happy (Belated) Thanksgiving With the Bantam

   

         The most recent thing I've made is the Bantam dress, which is a Merchant and Mills pattern. Its a shift dress with bias binding along the neck and arms and a slight racerback. Super simple and easy to follow; there aren't any darts or pleats. It is longer in the back by about 2 inches (intentional design of course). The only changes I had to make to my size 8 was the bust (it was gaping under the arms which means the pattern was probably made for a person with a larger bust) and I put the binding on the inside rather than topstitching it onto the front as suggested. I did get to wear this to Thanksgiving dinner. Since I live in MS, it is no surprise that the high was 60 degrees, and summer dresses can still be worn in late November. Once again I used a cotton that my grandmother gave to me, which has floral designs stitched over the already printed pattern.



The whole outfit.
     I think my next plan is going to be the Colette Crepe, again. That was my plan in the summer and we all see how that did not happen. If that doesn't happen I'll probably just post some commission work, whatever comes to me at the time. Or my brother's Henry costume. The jerkin is almost finished; I just have buttonholes and buttons to place. The Great Coat is another story, so it may be a while before it makes an appearance.

Happy (Late) Thanksgiving and Happy Sewing!


Monday, November 7, 2016

A Novel Idea: Some Phryne Inspired Sewing

When planning for the next post, I had thought that the Henry VIII costume would be the next topic, but I keep running into issues. It seems that velvet doesn't hold a gather very well when that seam has to hold the weight of decorative bits. It frays so easily and out pops the gathering threads, absolutely and completely. I got one sleeve onto the great coat before it completely unraveled, but alas, the second has been another story. However, the jerkin is finished and the doublet is fairly close.

Lately I have come up with a rather novel idea (you'll know how punny I am in about 2 seconds). Why not make a collection of garments inspired by fictional characters? First is a 1920s Phryne Fisher coat (Miss Fisher's Murder Mysteries by Kerry Greenwood), ideally made from a pink champagne-colored and sequined fabric, definitely lined with blush silk or something. However, that's expensive and my grandmother conveniently gave me some oriental looking fabric that definitely looks like it would have fit into the fascination of  Western fashion with the Orient-inspired styles in the 1920s. Definitely a gorgeous fabric.

The pattern I ended up using was part of the Merchant & Mills Workbook Link.

I ended up using the pattern called the Heron Top which is a wrap top. Very easy to follow. My only complaint is that the measurement for the longer tie is much too long, and if that's my only complaint, then it has to be pretty well done pattern. As far as my own mistakes go, the two front pleats are not even and the wrap shell keeps peeking up from under the collar in the back. Features I was really satisfied with: I now have a gently used Bernette for Bernina which has a properly working zig-zag stitch which means that I don't have a single raw edge on the inside. Also, this project gave me good practice with pivot points on the collared neckline of which I am sorely lacking. Lastly, I centered the medallions on the back. I usually forget to pay attention to things like that, but this time it was hard to ignore with such a vibrantly bold pattern.




I thought I would include the pivot points since I had not done them before. Above is marked and uncut. Below is after I cut into the point, so that I could attach the collar facing to the actual top.


The book's example.




Next on the current list of "Novel Idea" works would be an ensemble inspired by Mma Ramotswe  from The No. 1 Ladies Detective Agency by Alexander McCall Smith. That one is still in a state of machination. After that would be a Jane Eyre inspired dress which would also fulfill my sewing dare from gilliancrafts.