Named's Breaking the Pattern: Ruska Dress

I've never been one to do last minute sewing before I intend to wear it and I nearly threw this one to the wind because I was so close to the deadline and thought I would not finish it. My flight to PRW 2019 (in Portland, OR this year) was at 11:30 am Thu and I had work from 6:00-8:30 am before heading to the airport, so when I was still sewing on those metallic accents at 10pm on Wed, I decided I might just leave it. But I didn't.

Ruska is a pattern from Named's book Breaking the Pattern. It is a very interesting collection, such a mix of minimalist and streamlined items (inspired by classic shapes), usually featuring some sort of quirky or distinct characteristic -- comfortable but fresh. There is nothing terribly complicated, just good clean lines surrounding a little challenge. Before the Ruska, I had only worked with knits 1 time before and I didn't really know what I was doing. However, with the the Ruska, I took the time to make a plan, which is a little earth-shattering for me. I found out about the miracle called the triple stretch stitch and I learned about the importance of the weight of the knit. 

I added a silver stem stitch around all exposed hem seams on the front of the garment. I did the hem of the upper front (the bow piece) first and it was a nightmare to sew with the metallic thread. I started waxing the thread after that, which made it easier, but I found that stabilizing the thread between my finger anywhere between the needle and the thread's exit point from the last stitch helped prevent knots and uneven tension.

I experienced some rolling around the hem of upper front piece, which tells me that I either stretched the fabric and it's not going to go back to it's original shape, or I just need to use a heavier weight knit. Overall, I'm pleased with it and would like to make another. It was super easy and I gained such good experience with knits, which I had a unspoken fear of since I typically just go with wovens.

Happy Sewing!

The 50 States: Oregon -- Deer & Doe Agave Skirt

My trip to Oregon was a little unexpected, but such a blessing. I didn't think I'd be going to OR anytime soon, but then I saw that Pattern Review Weekend 2019 was going to be in Portland, so I said "why not?"
I think I expected Portland to be a more aggressive city, like the stereotypes more commonly associated with big East Coast cities, but it was more mid-western, friendly, and artsy than I expected, and it was a great time with all of the Pattern Review people. Loved it!💕 I made some great new friends and we all spoke the same (sewing) language! It was truly a time of discovery. It was also just what I needed after being in another job-hunt funk.

While there, I visited downtown, the Saturday Market, the Japanese Gardens, Lan Su Gardens (where I had some lovely mooncake and tea), and the International Rose Test Garden and met up with a friend from MS. The scenery is wonderful; lots of tall, dark mountains, gray clouds, and cool, quiet lush forests. We heard from Anne Whalley and Peggy Mead, and Deepika hosted a workshop on reverse appliqué sewing! I was exhausted after that long but exciting weekend.

Lan Su Gardens

small glimpse of the Japanese Gardens

Some PRW  swag!😁

More Japanese Gardens

And lunch on w/fellow PRW-ers!

For this garment, I chose some nani IRO linen (Kokka Linen Floral Blue Sheeting) that I actually saw in the Atelier to nani IRO sewing pattern book. I loved it, but never thought I would get it! But in the that same vein of unexpected things, I found it in Bolt Fabric Boutique. Of course, I bought it along with some other lovely fabrics. We also went to Pendleton Woolen Mills, Mill End Store, Josephine's Dry Goods, and Portland Fashion Institute Supply.

So let's move on to the actual project. The nani IRO print has roses on it, which is appropriate since we did visit the City of Roses. It was an unexpected and wonderfully colorful find, though, much like my experience in Portland. I chose the Deer&Doe Agave Skirt since the attendees of PRW got a coupon for it. It is a modern asymmetrical style, with variations that make it reversible, lined, or just with facing. I swapped the buttons for wrap skirt ties and lined the whole thing.  Easy to make, but the instructions were not as clear. I am very pleased with the outcome, though! 

I'm so glad that I finally laid hands on some nani IRO and it worked out so well. 🎉

Should be leaving a review for this and a Named dress on Pattern Review this week.

Happy Sewing!

The 50 States: Tennessee -- Sew House 7 Tea House Blouse

Tennessee is such a hodge-podge of things to me: southern, full of the arts, modern, mountainous, historic, yet growing. My impression of the state is bundled up in my four years of school near Chattanooga and multiple trips to Memphis, Franklin, and smaller towns. My mental mood board included something modern, abstract, and slightly structured. Memphis' Beale Street and the blue walking bridge in Chattanooga kept coming to mind, in particular. 

I have signed up for the 2019 Pattern Review Weekend in Portland, OR. Anne Whalley (The Pattern Whisperer https://www.annewhalley.com/)
AND Peggy Mead (Sew House Seven https://sewhouse7.com/) will be speaking. There will also be a fabric shopping day and a heap of thrilling seminars.

Of  course, I'll be packing mostly things I've made to wear. A few months ago I actually purchased a Tea House Dress and Blouse pattern from Sew House 7, so it is appropriate that I made one for the trip.

It was a fairly easy make, just a bit of confusion on the cuffs. Next time, I'll make sure to make my seam allowances larger. They suggested 5/8in and I did 1/2 in like I normally do, but it felt awfully baggy when I first finished.  I had to shorten the cuffs and I chose view D since I was short on the black and white contrast fabric. It's a little wrinkly since I had worn it most of the day by the time I took the pictures. I like the structure that the cuffs and stiffer cotton provide, but next time, I will size it down a little and raise the back casing. It felt a little low because I like to tie the tie around my natural waist, which is high relative to rest of my torso and defined. It is very comfortable to wear. 

                   

The fabric is  a collection by Michele D'Amore for Contempo. I got it in Chattanooga at Ready Set Sew.

Happy Sewing and Happy Mother's Day!

This particular shot is my sister and mother and I on Lookout Mountain, TN, one of many moments there.