Merchant & Mills: Curlew Long-Sleeve Dress in Gray Wool

This dress is a recovery attempt from my first version of the Merchant & Mills Curlew, which I ever so ambitiously made of charmeuse. The result was so-so and said ever so gently, "Amateur," every time I looked at it. This time, I worked with a wool/poly blend and cut on the grain since my fabric amount was limited. SO much easier to work with.

The Curlew hugs curves a little, but has a relaxed shape overall. I couldn't tell by the model's dress featured in the book that it actually has a bit of a pencil skirt and I had actually wanted to get an a-line shape. (If you are coming from Pattern Review, this next bit should sound familiar...) I also added sleeves, which I spent A LOT of time finagling in order to get them to fit in. I am still not happy with the fit along the back shoulders and the bust darts are still too low. I noticed that another reviewer noted how the instructions ask you to cut the darts when you cut out the pattern, and I agree with her that you need to sort adjustments out before actually cutting the darts out.  Also, the dress has a great feature that is not highlighted in the pattern book -- a curved seam across the back that  connects the bust darts. (click on pics to zoom!)

The following are a few fitting changes I made: I made the bust smaller, widened the darts, shortened the sleeves from the cuff and from the shoulder, cut with the grain instead of on the bias since I only had so much fabric. I finished cuffs and neckline with a sari silk ribbon. 
One thing I really liked about this pattern was the way it fit aside from the tightness in the back. It's very comfortable otherwise. I am also still in love with the seam across the back.

It's been a good experience, but both times I've made this dress, I spent way too much time adjusting things. However, there are other good staples and other things that I haven't tried yet that will bring me back to this book. Happy sewing!