Grading Down McCall's 8107 with Toolfully Grading Tools

    After making McCall's 8107 (OOP) a few weeks ago from the single-size pattern that turned out to be a tad too big, I realized it may be time to try my hand at grading, which has always been a daunting challenge in my mind. How can one get each new point correct as you move each part?  Well, it was not as difficult as I had expected honestly, just meticulous. Foremost lesson: When grading, it pays to be precise and meticulous, even it it seems like a bunch of extra work. To guide the process, I used tools from Toolfully on Etsy and this video:  

    The fabric I used for this skirt was a linen I picked up in Portland, OR in 2019 during Pattern Review Weekend. The finished skirt was not as small as I had hoped, despite being meticulous about moving each and every piece. Maybe I was not as attentive to my seam allowances or something. It still turned out okay and was even approved by my parents' cat. 😄

I messed up the first try (the black markings) and had to redo it (in green).

    💙 Anyway, it was a good learning experience and I will make sure to be precise in every aspect in order to get each measurement right.

Wee Wonderfuls Doll Portfolio Post

    🧵 As I continue to make Wee Wonderful dolls, either custom or for my booth, I'll just add them to this post and note what was special or if I modified part of the making process. 🧵

May 2022: A ginger doll for the booth. Loved the green dress+ red hair combo. Ginger-ness inspired by dear Stephen. 😍

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June 2022: Another doll to put in my booth. Love the bright colors on her!💕💚 This particular yarn was also easier to work with while making the wig.

Tartan Time Part 2

     

    Well, now it's my turn to show off my tartan. Consider this Part 2 of this post: https://sewingwithapurpose.blogspot.com/2022/04/tartan-time.html  After finishing my friend's skirt, I started on mine, which used the Scotland Forever tartan in a lightweight wool from Scotland Shop. It is really a lovely fabric. For the pattern, I used a vintage McCall's pattern M8107. Oddly, it has a size chart on the back of the package as usual, but it only came printed in one size... a 24, and I am a 20 on the McCall's scale. However, I usually find that older patterns run a little small and decided to risk it. This one did not run that small. 😅 Fortunately, I was able to move the large hooks and eyes that went on the inside of the front waist piece further in, so it took the skirt in enough, but not without warping the outer pleats a bit (but honestly, not that noticeable👍). The D-ring belt took care of any remaining slack, but I do have to tuck the belt in to keep it taut. Pockets also come with this skirt. I REALLY loved this pattern, so next time, I will grade it down.✨

    For the top, I used a printed white cotton that was given to me and Old Faithful: the Merchant & Mills Bantam vest from the Merchant & Mills Workbook. After making 3 dress versions, the Bantam vest was an easy answer to this skirt in need of this top. It always turns out and is easy to alter a bit if necessary! I even cut my own bias tape this time and used French seams. I really like the pattern mixing (of which I am not normally a fan) of the subtle print on the shirt and the tartan. 🧐 Finished products below. I plan to wear the ensemble to a local Celtic Fest this Saturday.

 

Happy Sewing!🧵