Basic Black: Lotus Cheongsam (Qípáo) Variation

pc: Layna Anderson/Clker 2014

Even as we plug away at the new year and are getting back into grind of work, I'm still enjoying a piece of Christmas. One of the gifts I received was Sato Watanabe's Basic Black: 26 Edgy Essentials for the Modern Wardrobe (Thanks, Grandma and Grandpa! 😊). Each of the pieces has a few striking or distinguishable features that would be in the spotlight on a single-color garment. However, I found the fabric first and then chose the pattern. Hobby Lobby sucked me in once again with a $3/yd sale, so I bought the last 3.25 yards on the bolt. At first, I had a little trouble deciding if the flowers were loti, peonies, or chrysanthemums. Finally settled on a many-petaled lotus, but who really knows?

The pattern is in a Japanese pattern book, so of course I had to trace it. I had some exceptional assistance...

A few things to note: I had to make my own facing for the collar and front opening since so many parts are pieced together at the top of the garment. Also, seam allowance is totally up to the maker, of course. It was easier than I thought it would be, but it was difficult to make the garment lie flat so that I could get accurate measurements as I drew a pattern for the facing. Next time, I would definitely add some interfacing to the collar and facing. There is a small translation error for 'ties' as 'waist ties' and there are no ties at the waist. I used wide cotton twill ribbon instead of cutting ties, and I added 13 inches to the shirt pattern to make the dress.

 

I am  pleased with the result overall and would make it again, but I don't really have a great need for another cheongsam. However, I do highly recommend this book and her particular pattern.
Happy Sewing!

Retro in the Rain

This particular project was made with the second fabric I got in NH. I loved it because it had watery shapes stitched across paintbrush strokes in metallic olive and gold. It was one of those fabrics you couldn't turn down because it was so unique. I'm fairly certain that it was intended to be upholstery for the curtains or your next set of Romantic Era dining room chairs. So naturally, with this weight and texture of fabric, it struck me as a good match for outerwear. I think I also felt a little pressured by the weather, since we have had non-stop rain for the last few weeks, and felt the need to put on another jacket😂. I miraculously found some 100% cotton twill ribbon at Hobby Lobby -- they haven't stocked that since they opened and I always need some for something.

I'm still on a Japanese pattern book streak (I even got 2 more for Christmas!), so I picked out a cloche coat/dress from Clothing for Everyday Wear by Yoshiko Tsukiori, "Dress T."
I decided to leave the straps and buttons off the sleeves since I was already going to be short on fabric. I shortened the whole thing by 5.5 inches, as well.
I gathered a little family counsel and they had 3 direction options:
1. Horizontal like water
2. Vertical like downward paintbrush strokes
3. Vertical like the rain
After turning it over and over #2 was the most popular.

I wasn't sure about having a drawstring neckline, but it turned out much better than expected. Generally, I tend to go with buttons, but the snaps make the whole garment feel a bit sturdier.

Pleats on the pockets!

Overall, it turned out well and better than expected. I can't wait to wear it in the spring!💐

Happy Sewing!